BearLeek

BearLeek is on Walnut Street in RiNo. Carlos Meza is the co-owner and beverage director. He picked the wines. Chef Rema Maaliki cooked — a tomato-and-melon nam sham. Sam and Justin were on the line.

The wines

Wine one was bright in the glass — a hint of green, a touch of granny-smith apple, citrus, honeysuckle. Restrained — it didn't pop out of the glass. Sam suspected Grüner Veltliner from a warm part of Austria — the white pepper note was the giveaway. Justin guessed Chardonnay, possibly California. Carlos confirmed the Grüner, from a warmer part of Austria. Sam wins this one.

Wine two was more golden, had a tropical-honey-vanilla nose. The kind of white that tells you it's seen oak. Sam and Justin both worked toward Chenin Blanc. Reveal: South African Chenin from a producer Carlos imports through specific channels. Both contestants had it close.

Wine three was a red — the curveball wine for a tomato-melon dish, served at room temperature. The tasters leaned into it. Sam liked the way the high acidity of the wine matched the high acidity of the tomatoes. Justin agreed.

The pairing

It depends on which guest you ask. "For those that enjoy a red wine, it's the Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico," Carlos said. "Most people wouldn't pair a red wine with the dish that we enjoyed, but because of the high acidity of the tomatoes, it's a great pairing for a red wine drinker. Lots of nice bright red cherry, some plum and blackberry, almost a little bit of a graphite-lead profile that goes really well with the dish."

For white-wine drinkers, the South African Chenin is the call. Sam went Riesling. Justin went Chenin. They were both right depending on what they were after.

The melon-and-tomato dish is, Sam said, worth the trip alone.

Go to BearLeek in RiNo. Order the Chenin or the Chianti. Better yet, order both.